Introduction
Rhubarb is an attractive hardy perennial with large leaves and pink, red or greenish leaf stalks that are used as a dessert, often in pies and crumbles. Stems are usually picked in spring, but plants can be covered with pots to produce an early crop of blanched stalks in late winter. The flavour of rhubarb varies in sweetness depending on the age of the stems.
Growing
Rhubarb is an attractive hardy perennial with large leaves and pink, red or greenish leaf stalks that are used as a dessert, often in pies and crumbles. Stems are usually picked in spring, but plants can be covered with pots to produce an early crop of blanched stalks in late winter. The flavour of rhubarb varies in sweetness depending on the age of the stems.
Plant
Rhubarb needs an open, sunny site with moist, but free-draining soil as it hates being waterlogged in winter. Avoid frost pockets as stems are susceptible to frost.
It can be grown from seed, but it’s more common to plant dormant crowns between autumn and spring. Prepare the ground by digging in two bucketfuls per square metre/yard of well-rotted manure, then spread out the roots and plant so the tip of the crown is just visible above the soil.
Pot-grown rhubarb can be planted at any time, but will need plenty of water during dry spells. Space plants 75-90cm (30-36in) apart, with 30cm (12in) between rows.
Rhubarb can also be planted in very large pots at least 50cm (20in) deep and wide.
Common problems
Crown rot: This is a common problem caused by various soil or water-borne fungi or bacteria. Plants look sickly, fail to grow and rot at the crown. This can spread to stems and foliage causing the plant die.
Remedy: Prompt action may save the plant. Remove affected areas by cutting well back into healthy tissue.
Slugs and snails: These feed on the young seedlings and you’ll see the tell tale slime trail on the soil around your crop, as well as on the leaves.
Remedy: There are many ways to control slugs and snails, including beer traps, sawdust or eggshell barriers, copper tape and biocontrols.
Harvesting
o not harvest during the first year after planting as this will reduce vigour. Remove a few stems the next year, then up to a third or half from then on, leaving some to keep the plant in active growth. To remove, hold the stalk at the base and ease it out of the ground, aiming to avoid snapping it off. Although rhubarb stems remain palatable and usable through summer, it is best not to over crop the plant and cease pulling by June, or at least only remove a few stalks after then.
Companion Planting
Here are tips suggesting a few plants that should not be planted near rhubarb, and several suggestions of plants that are favourable/helpful to grow alongside rhubarb in the home garden.
Gardening with Plant Companions is a great concept, by which, with careful planning, you can “help plants help each other” by choosing which garden companions to grow together.
In some cases this method of planting can help attract “helpful” bugs or repel “harmful” bugs.
In other instances particular types of plants may be planted to assist other plants by the natural addition of nutrients into the soil.
There are claims that companion planting helps to improve plant growth, plant health, and food flavour. Even planting certain larger leaf plants, (for example, rhubarb), can assist other, more sun sensitive plants by providing shelter from the sun.
Members of the Brassica family such as broccoli, kale, cabbage and cauliflower are also good companions for rhubarb, but rhubarb really does not require specific garden companions. In fact, our rhubarb garden is just that…a rhubarb garden, with no other vegetables or other plants, and it thrives amazingly!
Whilst rhubarb doesn’t really need companion plants, strawberries are in fact a fantastic companion plant for rhubarb and the relationship is very much reciprocal.
Recipes
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